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Kankarwa Haveli — a living haveli, home to an aristocratic family for two centuries near Lal Ghat — was comprehensively restored in the 1990s. Multi-tiered courtyards, steep stone staircases, rooftop views that most tourists never find. And then there's Madri Haveli — 300 years old, six years in the making of its restoration, rebuilt using traditional lime mortar and stone, now housing boutique rooms with stained glass windows.
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